If you've ever browsed a curly hair Facebook group, you'll probably recognize this: "You should do an egg mask, it's good for your protein!" or "Rice water always works, because it's full of protein."
Sounds convincing, but unfortunately... often very little of it is true. Because not every protein works the same way in your hair. The difference lies mainly in the size of the protein.
Small proteins: the clever repairers
Small proteins are usually hydrolyzed – meaning they've been broken down into smaller pieces (peptides or amino acids). This allows them to partially penetrate and attach to the outer layers of the hair shaft . They fill in minor damage and strengthen the hair. The result: more resilient, elastic curls that break less easily.
Examples of small, hydrolyzed proteins:
- Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
- Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
- Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
- Hydrolyzed Corn Protein
- Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
- Hydrolyzed Silk Protein (in small chains)
- Hydrolyzed Keratin (broken-down keratin)
- Hydrolyzed Pea Protein
- Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein
- Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein
👉 Do you see the word "Hydrolyzed" on an ingredient list? Then you usually have a smaller protein that can really contribute to recovery.
Large proteins: the protective layer
Larger proteins are too big to penetrate the hair shaft. They therefore mainly remain on the outside of your hair . There they form a coating that makes your hair smoother, protects it from damage, and makes it feel fuller. This effect is temporary and mainly cosmetic, but it can give your curls that extra bit of firmness and protection.
Examples of large proteins:
- Keratin (non-hydrolyzed)
- Collagen (intact, not hydrolyzed)
- Silk Protein (in full form)
- Elastin
- Zea Mays (Corn) Protein (not hydrolyzed)
- Milk Protein (e.g. casein)
- Egg Protein (as in DIY masks → far too large)
- Gelatin
👉 These proteins are often found in masks or products that promise more body, smoothness, or protection.
Why this distinction is so important
Advice such as "smearing an egg in your hair" or "rinsing with rice water" misses the point. The proteins in a raw egg or rice are simply too large to penetrate your hair shaft. The result? Hard, stiff hair and sometimes a bad smell – but no real repair.
If you do choose hair products with hydrolyzed proteins, you're giving your curls exactly what they need: small proteins for repair and resilience, and larger proteins for protection and volume.
How do you know which proteins your hair needs?
Not all hair reacts the same way to protein. The porosity (how open or closed the hair cuticles are) and the thickness of your hair strands play a major role. Here's a handy overview:
🔹 Low porosity hair (closed hair cuticles)
- Characteristics: products are difficult to absorb, hair dries slowly, quick product build-up.
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Best proteins: smaller, light hydrolyzed proteins such as Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, or Hydrolyzed Silk Protein.
→ These bind best to the outer layer without weighing it down.
🔹 Normal/medium porous hair
- Characteristics: hair absorbs products fairly well, retains moisture, reacts predictably.
-
Best proteins: a mix of small (e.g. Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Oat Protein) and larger (such as Keratin, Collagen).
→ This hair can tolerate both and benefits from the combination.
🔹 Highly porous hair (open cuticles, often damaged or chemically treated)
- Characteristics: hair feels dry, frizzy, absorbs products quickly but loses them just as quickly, breaks easily.
-
Best proteins: especially small, hydrolyzed proteins (Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein).
→ They fill "gaps" in the hair structure and restore elasticity. Larger proteins can provide additional protection, but are less effective for structural repair.
Hair thickness
- Fine hair: benefits more quickly from small proteins because they strengthen without weighing it down. Large proteins or too many film-forming agents can make fine hair stiff.
- Normal hair: can usually tolerate a combination of small and large curls. Often depends on styling preferences (more firmness vs. more elasticity).
- Thick/coarse hair: can often handle more and responds well to larger proteins that create a layer for extra body and smoothness. However, hydrolyzed proteins are also useful for repairing internal damage.
Conclusion
Don't be misled by myths from Facebook groups. It's not just about "more protein," but about the right type of protein for your curls – tailored to porosity and hair thickness. Small proteins strengthen and repair, large proteins protect and add firmness to the outside.
👉 At Amazing Curls, you'll find products that support exactly that balance. Our Protein Drops contain small, hydrolyzed proteins that you can easily add to your routine. This way, you determine for yourself how much and what kind of protein your curls need – without doubt and without misinformation.