Styling curly hair isn't a set step-by-step plan.
What works perfectly for one person on soaking wet hair can leave another limp, frizzy, or heavy. This doesn't mean you're doing anything wrong; it just means that every hair reacts differently to water .
In this blog you will read:
- what the difference is between styling on soaking wet, wet and damp hair
- which method suits your hair porosity
- how hair thickness and density play a role in this
- and which styling techniques work best for each hair profile
This explanation is based on hair physiology, curl education, and practical experience.
Why the timing of application is so important for curls
With curly hair, water is not an afterthought, but an active factor .
Water determines:
- how well styling products penetrate the hair
- how curls clump together
- how much hold and definition you ultimately get
- how much friction (and therefore frizz) is created during styling
Therefore exactly the same product can:
- work lightly on soaking wet hair
- perfect on wet hair
- and too heavy on damp hair
What do we mean by soaking wet, damp, and moist hair?
Just to be clear:
-
Soaking wet hair
Her hair is completely soaked; water is still visibly running out of it. -
Wet hair
Her hair is nice and wet, but no longer dripping. -
Damp hair
Hair is towel dried; there is no visible water left.
This difference is crucial to how your hair responds to styling.
Styling by hair porosity
Hair porosity describes how easily your hair absorbs and retains water and product .
Low porosity (closed hair cuticles)
Features
- Hair has difficulty absorbing water
- Product stays on the hair quickly
- Hair may feel heavy or greasy
Best time to style
✅ Soaking wet hair
Why this works
Water helps temporarily open the hair cuticles, allowing product to be better distributed and absorbed.
Best styling techniques
- Praying hands (smooth application, low friction)
- Rake & smooth (no rough combing)
- Wet-plopping
- Gentle scrunching (do not knead)
Nuance:
Wet styling only works well here if the product is applied gently and evenly. Too much manipulation can still lead to limp hair.
Medium porosity (balanced hair)
Features
- Hair absorbs moisture well
- Product stays in place well
- Most versatile hair type
Best time to style
✅ Wet hair
Why this works
Water and product are in balance: enough dilution for distribution, enough hold for definition.
Best styling techniques
- Praying hands + scrunch
- Rake & shake
- Brush styling
- Micro-popping
This hair type can often combine several techniques without any problems.
High porosity (open or damaged hair cuticles)
Features
- Hair absorbs water and product quickly
- Also loses moisture quickly
- Sensitive to lint
Best time to style
✅ Wet to damp hair
Why not soaking wet?
On soaking wet hair, product can become too diluted and literally “disappear” into the hair, leading to poor hold.
Best styling techniques
- Praying hands with light pressure
- Scrunch in sections
- Brush styling for structure
- Layering (e.g. styling on wet hair first, then adding definition on damp hair later)
Just because there's no universal styling method doesn't mean you have to keep trying. Many different techniques have been developed to style curls in a controlled manner, such as scrunching, praying hands, plopping, and brush styling. Which technique works for you depends largely on your hair type and the amount of water your hair needs.
In this comprehensive explanation you will find 28 curly girl techniques explained step by step , so you can discover which method suits your curls best.
Styling per hair thickness
Hair thickness refers to the thickness of one individual hair , not how much hair you have.
Fine hair
Best time to style
✅ Soaking wet to wet hair
Why
Fine hair quickly becomes overloaded. Water dilutes the product and prevents curls from collapsing.
Best techniques
- Praying hands
- Wet-plopping
- Light scrunching
- As little manipulation as possible
Medium hair thickness
Best time to style
✅ Wet hair
Best techniques
- Rake & shake
- Scrunch
- Brush styling
Usually responds stably and predictably.
Thick / coarse hair
Best time to style
✅ Wet to damp hair
Why
This hair has more resistance and can better tolerate more concentrated styling.
Best techniques
- Praying hands with pressure
- Scrunch by section
- Short popping
Styling by hair density
Hair density says something about how much hair you have on your head .
Low density (little hair)
Best time to style
✅ Soaking wet to wet hair
Best techniques
- Praying hands
- Wet-plopping
- Scrunch as little as possible
Too much product or movement quickly makes hair flat.
Medium density
Best time to style
✅ Wet hair
Best techniques
- Rake & shake
- Scrunch
- Brush styling
High density (lots of hair)
Best time to style
✅ Wet to damp hair
Best techniques
- Styling in sections
- Scrunch per layer
- Possibly root clipping after styling
More hair calls for more control and distribution.
Important nuance: these are guidelines, not rules
Your hair may react differently due to:
- season and humidity
- product structure
- a clarifying wash
- hormonal fluctuations
So see this blog as a compass , not a fixed protocol.
How do you know if you're doing it right?
- Are your curls getting limp? → use a little less water next time
- Are you getting fluff? → more water next time
- Does your hair feel heavy? → product probably too concentrated
Your hair always tells you what it needs, if you learn to observe.
Summary
- Low porosity & fine hair → soaking wet styling
- Medium porosity → wet hair is ideal
- High porosity & coarse hair → wet to damp styling
- More hair = more control
This explanation is meant as guidance, not a fixed step-by-step plan. Your hair can react differently depending on the day, season, and wash. By understanding when to style and the appropriate techniques, you can work much more effectively on lasting definition and reducing frizz.
Want to bring all of this together into a single, logical whole? This blog post will show you how to translate your knowledge into the ultimate styling routine for perfect curls , tailored to your hair type and lifestyle.
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FAQ
What's the difference between soaking wet, wet, and damp hair when it comes to curls?
Soaking wet hair is completely soaked and still dripping, wet hair is thoroughly wet but no longer dripping, and damp hair is towel-dried. This difference determines how styling products distribute and how curls form.
Is styling on soaking wet hair better for curls?
That depends on your hair type. Wet styling often works well for low porosity and fine hair, as water helps distribute product evenly. For high porosity hair, it might not provide enough hold.
What is the best time to apply styling products to curly hair?
For most people, styling on wet hair is the best balance. This ensures hair is wet enough for even distribution, but not so wet that the product is diluted too much.
Why do I get frizz when I style on damp hair?
On damp hair, there's less water to reduce friction. This can make the hair more susceptible to frizz during application, especially in low porosity or fine hair.
Does hair thickness and density matter when styling curls?
Yes. Fine hair gets overloaded more quickly and needs more water. Thick or coarse hair can better withstand more concentrated styling. High density requires more control and working in sections.
Can my hair react differently to the same styling method every day?
Yes. Factors like humidity, season, product buildup, and hormonal changes can affect how your hair reacts to water and styling products.